From a parcel on the Chambolle side at the top of the slope, the 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru offers up pretty aromas of wild berries, dark chocolate, warm spices and dried flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with a concentrated core of fruit that largely conceals its fine-grained but chalky structuring tannins. I expect it to land at the upper end of my bracketed score.

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, of which there are two-and-a-half barrels this year, has an intense bouquet of blackberry, blueberry, pressed violets and hints of crushed stone, and feels very controlled and focused. The ripe, vibrant palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and shimmering black fruit laced with orange sorbet and Japanese yuzu. This is a quintessential, zinging Bonnes-Mares, very well crafted and with impressive persistence on the finish.

Very deep purplish crimson, one of the deepest wines on show in Burgundy Week. This smells almost overripe – or is it a slightly tired cask sample? Difficult to score anyway. I’m not confident of covering it with glory on the basis of this sample, I’m afraid. Not enough freshness. (JR)