Aromas of wild berries, spices, peonies, dark chocolate and subtle hints of grilled meats introduce the 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a full-bodied, deep and broad-shouldered wine that's deep, concentrated and reserved. It had a late malolactic, making this one of the more backward cuvées in the cellar. There are fully 14 barrels this year, equating to a yield of around 45 hectoliters per hectare from the domaine's 0.69-hectare parcel.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is the one cru that did not "click" with me out of barrel, coming across a little sullen compared to the Vosne Premier Crus. The palate is better thanks to the fine, slightly chalky tannins and the almost racy acidity that lends so much freshness and nervosité on the finish. Once the aromatics meld together, as I am sure they will do by the time of bottling, this should evolve into a fine Clos de Vougeot.