The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru contains a huge wave of concentrated, glycerin-rich red fruit that lacks subtlety, but at least there is a sense of purity here. The palate is velvety-smooth and luscious, with a sweet, candied, persistent finish. It's a bit over the top, but it is undeniably balanced, and in a decade's time—once it has assimilated the new oak—it could become quite wonderful. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Not quite such a deep crimson as this producer's 2019 Vosne Beaux Monts. Sumptuous, savoury, heady, layered nose. Sweet palate entry and real tension on the palate. Lip-smacking fruit and particularly polished tannins. A note of bitter black cherries adds interest. Light grip on the end before persistent vibrant fruit on the finish. Yet another fine 2019 Clos de Vougeot. (JR)