The king of the cellar is the 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru, a magical wine in the making that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, red berries, exotic spices, licorice and orange rind. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and a strikingly persistent finish. Again, this looks likely to emerge as the finest of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio chez Hudelot-Noëllat.

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru is much more backward on the nose but give it time and it reveals spellbinding pure dark plum and wild strawberry aromas interlaced with crushed limestone and blood orange. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, fine backbone, taut and fresh with just the right amount of salinity on the finish. Difficult to find fault with this Richebourg in all honesty. "I think this might be the best Richebourg I have ever made," commented Charles van Canneyt. Yup.