Both opulent and elegant, this is the essence of Grand Cru Burgundy. Richly fruited with layers of expressive red and black cherry, it builds on the palate to a long, seamless finish. A wonderful expression of Beze.

Bright medium red. Reticent on the nose but already conveying exhilarating high tones to its aromas of raspberry liqueur, pomegranate, wild herbs, spices and game. Dense and seamless but also salty and penetrating, communicating a distinctly wild aspect to its flavors of cranberry, dark cherry, minerals and game. Aeration brought a compelling creaminess to the middle palate, but the wine's unflagging finish suggests that this powerful expression of soil will repay extended cellaring. Even today, the noble tannins are in perfect harmony with the wine's fruit.

The 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a sweeter and riper, if less nuanced and aristocratic bouquet than the 2014 Chambertin. This is all sweetness and light (unusually for Clos de Bèze). The palate is very refined with rounded tannin, well judged acidity and good density. This is backward, almost surly towards the finish, but there is also an attractive spicy edge that comes through on the aftertaste. It may actually need more bottle age than the Chambertin.

Has the same harmony as the Chapelle but is also a little more lively and energetic. Elegant, light-footed, dry and still persistent. Charming fragrance on the finish, suggesting reasonably early approachability. (JH)