Produced from 85-year old vines, the stellar 2003 Chapelle-Chambertin explodes from the glass with earthy black fruit aromas. A sappy, chewy, medium to full-bodied wine of considerable depth and concentration, it slathers the taster’s palate with chunky layers of fleshy black cherries and blackberries. Intense, powerful, and backward, this stout masculine effort demands patience. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Note: Three wines that were tasted as barrel samples in November, 2004 were re-tasted from bottle in June, 2005. The 2003 Puligny-Montrachet (rated 87 points) is medium-bodied, expressive and plush, yet focused; the 2003 Pernand-Vergelesses Croix de Pierre (88) sports a wonderful nose of flowers and red cherries as well as a deep medium-bodied character filled with stony dark fruits; and the outstanding 2003 Pommard Rugiens (92) is medium to full-bodied, dense, structured, intense, and crammed with dark fruits. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Dee p ruby-red. Musky, highly nuanced aromas of wild black raspberry, game, leather and coffee. Wonderfully creamy and deep, with a penetrating character and strong minerality that reinforces the impression of firmness. Wonderfully resounding finish goes on and on. This extremely deep wine really transcends its vintage. The vines here are 85 years old.

The nose is still a bit raw. Lots of quite grainy tannins but quite supple and fine on the palate. Just a note of dried fruits on the finish. Still quite hard work. I may well be underestimating this. (JR)