The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselles Grand Cru has an almost terse bouquet telling you to "go away" at first. It coheres in the glass, gaining intensity with crushed rock filtering through the Mirabelle and orange pith scents, just a touch of wild mint in the background. The palate is very well-balanced with a keen line of acidity. Yes, there is some oak to be assimilated here, but there is wonderful definition towards the finish with a real peacock's tail of intensity. Sophisticated, but it will need time to fully integrate the wood.

The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is, as usual, one of the high points of the range, unfurling in the glass with aromas of pear, crisp stone fruit, white flowers, toasted bread, iodine and subtle reduction. Full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's suave and charming, with a layered, vibrant core of fruit and a long, lively finish.