Clear medium red with some amber at the rim. The first wine in the line-up that smells fully evolved, offering a strong cedary balsamic quality as well a touch of volatile acidity to its plum and underbrush aromas. Concentrated, chewy, tactile wine with excellent energy and tannic support. In a savory style, conveying surprising acidity and finishing with slightly dusty tannins. This vintage featuring a so-so September was saved by low yields, noted Barnier, who added that a lot of '95s are not yet easy to taste. Still, I'm not sure how long this wine will last.

The medium-to-dark ruby colored Corton Pougets offers gorgeously perfumed and sweet aromas of violets, roses and currants. Admirably ripe and refined, this medium-to-full-bodied wine has an oily-texture crammed with super-ripe black currants, blueberries and dark cherries. It is a highly structured, tightly wound yet well-extracted wine; this Corton will benefit from a few years of cellaring. Drink it between 2000-2006. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.