The 2008 Clos de Vougeot is initially quite tense and wiry, but then grows very nicely in the glass. Violets, licorice, red cherries and smoke are some of the notes that emerge from this clean, mineral-infused Clos Vougeot. I especially like the cool, vibrant finish. This is a very beautifully, pointed wine from Jadot. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

(September malo) Deep red-ruby. Aromas of black cherry and licorice. Chewy and dense but medicinal and closed. Totally different in texture from all the samples that preceded it. Finishes with a strong chocolatey flavor and powerful tannins that coat the front teeth. This is next to impenetrable today and extremely hard to assess.

Dark crimson. Sweet and a little bit febrile. Lack of freshness and directness. A bit muddy though admittedly this may be connected with the rather high serving temperature. The sort of wine that may well look much better a bit cooler... (JR)