An intensely earthy nose offers a wide range of red berry aromas and is surrounded by just enough wood to mention. The muscular large-scaled flavors possess a rounded and relatively supple mid-palate that contrasts with the robust, serious, rustic and youthfully austere finish. I like the depth as well as the persistence that makes clear that this too is going to require extended cellaring if you wish to see it at its peak.

The 2016 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is showing well from bottle, unwinding in the glass with a youthfully primary bouquet of ripe cherries, red berries, candied peel and cassis that's subtly framed by some nicely integrated new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and satiny textured, its broad-shouldered chassis of impressively fine-grained tannin cloaked in a succulent, even tangy core of vibrant fruit, concluding with a long and nicely defined finish. While the structure is sufficiently refined that drinking a glass now isn't a brutalizing experience, a decade of patience is recommended.

(Jadot's vines in the lower part of the clos produced a normal yield in 2016): Bright, dark red. Medicinal red cherry, licorice, herbs and a strong element of spicy oak on the nose. Concentrated, savory and flavorful, communicating an impression of medicinal reserve. A classic, rather old-fashioned, masculine style of Clos Vougeot but not rustic or hard. Still, its tight, dusty tannins will require extended cellaring. Technical director Frédéric Barnier believes that Jadot's Clos Vougeot has been getting steadily softer, as this site has benefited from climate change; he also noted that he has not changed the vinification. Still, this is a seriously tannic, rather saline wine without any easy sweetness.

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an earthy nose compared to its peers, the fruit profile more introspective with subtle marine scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin matched with a silver bead of acidity. Backward and broody, I was not the only person at this tasting alarmed by how it deteriorates in the glass. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Lightish cherry red. Lifted, peppery raspberry freshness. Smoothest of textures here, rounded and gentle. More approachable than the Corton-Pougets but with a little less concentration on the mid palate. (JH)