Deep red. The nose offers an essence of Clos Saint-Jacques: raspberry, cherry, rose petal, minerals and smoke, plus a whiff of fresh leather. Wonderfully sweet but at the same time sharply delineated, conveys a nearly saline impression of extract. An ineffable floral element provides captivating inner-mouth perfume. Utterly seamless wine that finishes with perfectly harmonious tannins and palate-staining aromatic character. This is too sexy now but I'm not complaining.

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru (magnum) is blessed with a beautiful bouquet of kirsch, wild strawberry, crushed stone and floral aromas, perhaps closer to the essence of Clos Saint-Jacques than the 2001. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip on the entry. There is fine weight and salinity in the mouth, and plenty of substance toward the sensual but utterly harmonious finish. This will probably benefit from another two or three years in bottle, and then those patient enough to cellar it will surely be rewarded with two decades of drinking pleasure.

Vines planted in 1986. Destemmed. One third new oak. Bright cherry red. Good tension and energy on the nose. Very slightly dry on the end but with great pace and energy. Mid to full bodied and with really obvious class. Great polish and finesse. Not massive; it’s the energy card that is played here. Very fine tannins still in evidence. Very mild austerity on the nose still. (JR)