There are only seven barrels of the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot), an attractively sensual wine evocative of cherries, plums, orange zest, smoke and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a sweet core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish, its quality is some compensation for the lack of quantity.

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru shows just a tiny reduction on the nose, reluctantly opening with brambly red fruit, undergrowth and Earl Grey aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It's quite "racy" in the mouth and a little tarry toward the finish. Presents good depth and length, though I find myself drawn more towards the Gevrey 1er Cru. Just needs to find its "groove".

Cask sample. Bright mid garnet. Sweet, jewelly, bright-fruited nose. Superior density and great fragrance. Real impact on the palate. Great persistence. Refined but not scrawny. Lifted and elegant on the nose with real breadth on the palate. Just gorgeous already even though one knows that it will just go on getting better and better. (JR)