Good deep red-ruby color. Black fruits, violet and pepper on the nose, with a suggestion of oak spice. Large-scaled, lush and vinous, with full but juicy flavors of dark berries and violet. This, too, boasts lovely restrained sweetness. A wine of huge phenolic material, with the dusty tannins coating the entire palate. Here's a 2003 that calls for a good decade of aging and may well evolve in bottle for 20 years or more.

Sporting a medium to dark ruby/purple color, the 2003 Volnay Clos des Chenes (red) explodes from the glass with spices, rose petals, dark cherries, and blueberries. Seemingly the ripest of the Volnays, it expands on the palate with copious quantities of candied black fruits, cassis liqueur, tar, and licorice. Medium-bodied, it displays outstanding depth and an extended finish that exhibits additional waves of fruit as well as loads of ripe tannin. Projected maturity: 2010-2020. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

The 2003 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a pretty and well-defined bouquet whereby the terroir and Lafarge’s winemaking skill overcome the imprimatur of the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, plenty of tart red fruit and a bit of sourness toward the finish. Yet it has cohesion and some vigor, and I can see it offering several more years of drinking pleasure. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2003/2004 tasting in London.

Picked from 20 September. Bright, healthy garnet. Rather muted nose. Very juicy fruit with life and freshness. The tannins are fine and dusty. This seems pretty convincing, especially for the vintage. Real grunt. Perhaps not as nuanced as in a great vintage but this is certainly a wine that can safely be recommended. Even if it’s a tad dry on the end. (JR)