Bright medium red. High-pitched aromas and flavors of blueberry, black cherry and licorice; darker in fruit character than the young 2012 version. Quite reserved and tightly wound, with hints of pepper and herbs contributing to the impression of energy and precision. Finishes with serious fine-grained tannins and terrific persistence. Lay this one down.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2011 from Michel Lafarge has a detailed, precise and mineral bouquet that is focused and sophisticated. Here the terroir really shows through with a sense of transparency and the whole bunch ferment is obvious. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp and slightly chalky tannins. This still feels quite tight with a rather foursquare finish, but it has some class and its reserved personality is appealing.

Pale ruby. Light but charming nose with some definite evolution. Softened tannins with just a little drying fruit on the end. Remarkable sweetness and no marked acidity. Less than perfection but nothing forced. Quite long but just lacking a little drive. (JR)