The 2023 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a harmonious bouquet with slightly blacker fruit than the Caillerets, and hints of pencil shavings and bay leaf emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fresh and quite saline yet certainly elegant, with an understated finish that lingers. It is already oozing class.

Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, orange zest, rose petals and baking chocolate, Lafarge's 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is medium to full-bodied, with the most muscular, dense profile in the range, its rich core of fruit framed by chalky tannins.

Cask sample. Mid ruby. Sweet red-cherry nose with raspberries and a touch of violet. Deliciously ripe texture. Ripe, soft tannins. Balance. Excellent wine. (MH)