A sublime, seamless wine, the 2010 Montrachet impresses for its fabulous balance and sense of harmony. All the elements are in the right place. Floral aromatics meld effortlessly into highly nuanced fruit. Hints of smoke, slate and mint add complexity. Not surprisingly, the Montrachet has tightened up considerably since I tasted it from barrel last fall. The 2010 is going to require a measure of patience. Today, it is an infant, and also shows some of the effects of its recent bottling in June, 2012. Lafon’s parcels lie on the Chassagne side, but the wine itself shows more of a Puligny-like finesse. Anticipated maturity: 2016+.

This bottle was decanted before serving. Relatively closed at first, despite decanting. Yet there is a palpable sense of the exquisite on the nose: poise and power inseparable. On the palate, this is the kind of wine that stops you in your tracks and completely holds your attention. Even if the acid has yet to integrate, the flavours shade imperceptibly into each other: grilled nuts into peach kernel into white peach, to yellow plum, greengage, green apple, lemon, grilled citrus, back to grilled nuts, a perfect circle that encapsulates this great vineyard, all overlaid with a lacy mineral grace. With monumental density yet no trace of heaviness, this is a masterpiece. (AH)