Despite a notably ripe aromatic profile that also flirts with the exotic, the nose maintains a sense of elegance with intensely spicy scents of apricot, white peach, floral and citrus hints that are trimmed in toasty oak. There is excellent richness but also fine detail to the focused, powerful and tautly muscular flavors that possess terrific intensity on the explosive and hugely long finish. While a big wine by most standards, this is not really a big Lafon Montrachet and it essentially remains a wine of finesse and refinement.

Tasted blind, the 2011 Montrachet Grand Cru has opened up since I last tasted a bottle (also blind) offering glimpses of honeysuckle and beeswax, even a hint of dried pineapple with time. It feels fresh, effervescent even. The palate is underpinned by a fine thread of acidity, and this time I did not detect any oxidative notes towards the finish, although it did come across as quite "creamy" with accentuated oakiness that suggests it deserves 3-4 more years to reach its plateau. As before, I remain cautious with my assessment. Tasted October 2016.