There are fully seven barrels of the 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru—one fewer than the eight produced in 1982, but considerably more than the four that have been more or less the norm over the last decade—equating to a yield of around 45 hectoliters per hectare from Lafon's 0.32-hectare parcel. Bursting with expressive aromas of orange oil, white flowers, ripe pears, warm bread and toasted almonds, it's full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a satiny-textured attack, an ample core of fruit and chalky grip on the impressively long finish.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru comprises seven barrels this year. It has a stunning, penetrating bouquet that rivets you to the spot with astonishing mineral tension and scents of wet granite, citrus lemon and grilled walnut. The beautifully balanced palate offers hints of white chocolate and almond and amazing delineation and mineralité, not to mention stunning persistence on the finish. This is a wine that makes you go "wow," or rather "WOW" – it deserves capital letters.

100% new oak – like his dad did, explains Dominique Lafon, though his dad used 100% new oak on a lot of premiers crus. In 2018, Lafon made a whopping 7 barrels instead of the more usual 4 or 5. Barrel sample. Deep and golden in the nose (aromas I associate with burnished gold) with some bitter-orange intensity, golden spice. On the palate, stunning freshness emerging from toasty richness. Orange tang and peel and fabulous length. (JH)