The 2011 Meursault Clos de la Barre was raised in used oak and bottled a little later than Dominique’s other 2011s. It has a generous bouquet that is spicier than the Village Cru with hints of smoked walnut emerging with time. The palate takes the tempo down a notch: mellow, refined and harmonious with beautifully integrated oak and a sumptuous lightly honeyed finish. Lovely. Drink now-2022+ It was great to see Dominique Lafon three weeks after meeting him in Macon, this time back in Meursault. That semi-pornographic, licentious wine advertisement still hung on the office wall (those that have been there know what I mean) and a cigarette butt drooped from Dominique’s mouth, possibly the same one he lit when I bid him farewell back in Macon. If you added up all the charisma and charm in Bordeaux it still would amount to less than Dominique Lafon. I have tasted at this address for over a decade, but this marked the first time I had been presented his complete set of Premier Cru Meursault wines since his acquisition from Domaine Manuel with Jean-Marc Roulot. He remarked that possibly with the exception of a negociant, he is the only vigneron with all six top-tier Premier Crus south of the village. Dominique opened his full range of 2011s, including the Montrachet, which he avowed to polish off with a fish supper that night. How I would have loved to join him. Needless to say, this was an exemplary set of 2011s that do not disappoint. While like many others he concedes that 2010s have the upper hand and are likely to outlive them, he admires the 2011s for their approachability and charm. Importer: Becky Wassermann Selections (Le Serbet); www.leserbet.com

This is aromatically quite similar to the straight Meursault except here the framing wood is a bit more evident. The textured and well-concentrated flavors are brought into sharp relief but the solid acid spine that is firm enough to shape as well as support the dry, clean and very long finish. This is an excellent villages that is perhaps a bit more lively than it typically is. Worth considering.