The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or has an expressive nose that is cut from a similar cloth to the Meursault Bouchère, but perhaps with more gumption: citrus fruit, white peach and a touch of honeysuckle even, all with fine mineral tones. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a keen thread of acidity, slightly honeyed with a hint of something sweet, maybe marzipan or coconut, on the finish. Like an excitable child, send them to kindergarten for 3-4 years before welcoming them back home, preferably to your dinner table.

(50% hail loss): Very ripe lemon oil aroma. Boasts a glyceral thickness and comes across as more open-knit than the young Bouchères. But strong lemony acidity gives cut and lift to the mid-palate and carries the aftertaste.

Clay of Porusot and the poor soils of Bouchères at the same time. Quite solid. Very winning nose. Lots of pleasure and breadth with good acidity and almost imperceptible tannins. Bright and fleshy. Very long. (JR)