The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots exhibits aromas of green orchard fruit, dried white flowers and toasted nuts, framed by a touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline, concluding with a pure finish.

(45 hectoliters per hectare; aging in 30% new oak): Bright, pale yellow. Tight, lively scents of soft citrus fruits, nectarine and hazelnut plus a note of oak spice. Quite dry and classic on the palate, with its stone fruit and spice flavors supported by a firm mineral spine. No easy sweetness here! I particularly liked this wine's dusty, tactile finish, which shows rising length and noteworthy mineral tension.

The 2017 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru is taut and focused on the nose, tight at first, but then aeration reveals some lovely walnut and smoky aromas, and good mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite concentrated and tensile, although it does not quite deliver the precision of the top Premier Crus toward the finish. Still, this Meursault has a bit of swagger about it. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

He has 1 ha (2.5 acres), on clay and at a fairly low elevation. 25% new oak. Ripe, almost honeyed, citrus aroma. That orange of Meursault soars from the glass. Spicy and gently cedary but not oaky. Again, there’s power and depth here. Another rich wine that refines itself on the finish with precision. Great tension on the finish. ‘Says hello like a Gouttes d’Or but says goodbye like a Genevrières’, suggests Lafon. (JH)