The 2017 Volnay Village includes some declassified Santenots and Champans fruit. It has a very pretty bouquet of raspberry and wild strawberry scents, just a touch of undergrowth developing with time. The medium-bodied palate offers supple tannin and fine acidity. Elegant and suave, with a fleshy, persistent finish that is perhaps not quite as compelling as the 2018, but has wonderful sheer drinkability.

A cuvée composed of young vine Santenots and only comparatively young vine Champans, the 2017 Volnay Village is medium-bodied, elegant and open-knit, with good depth at the core, succulent acids and fine tannins, concluding with a respectably long finish.

Mainly Santenots but some Champans. Tasted from tank, already blended and will be lightly filtered before bottling in a couple of weeks and then dispatched with the 2016s because he has so little of the latter. Dark fruited and a touch smoky. Deep in fruit, gently chewy but you don’t need to wait long for this if you are drinking it at the table. Both smooth and lively and a bright fresh finish. (JH)