The 2009 Volnay Champans blossoms in every direction with black cherries, tar, smoke licorice and crushed rocks. This deep, resonant wine graced with tons of depth and gorgeous textural richness captures the best qualities of 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Importers: Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300

(two-thirds of these vines are 85 years old, the other third about 25): Good bright, dark red. The nose is distinctly darker than that of the village Volnay and Clos des Chenes, offering scents of black cherry, licorice, violet, menthol and bitter chocolate. Then lush and creamy in the mouth, with an attractive high-toned quality to the pure cherry and violet flavors. Shows classic 2009 ripeness but has just enough acidity to maintain its balance. Finishes firmly tannic, chewy and long. Lafon says this one needs a decade of bottle aging. "Most people don't wait," he added. "That's why the Champans doesn't have the reputation of the Clos des Chenes or the Santenots."