The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, the lower part of which was touched by frost, has a much more terroir-driven, mineral-led bouquet with black cherries, bergamot and cold stone scents. This feels more driven than the Clos des Chenes. The palate is well balanced with fine definition, tensile black cherry and blueberry fruit framing a pretty, tensile finish. This showed up the Clos des Chênes out of barrel, and it will be interesting to see whether it does likewise once in bottle.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

(27 hectoliters per hectare produced): Bright dark red. Dark scents of blackcurrant and black cherry are complicated by menthol and violet nuances. Silky and fine-grained but a bit less thick and sweet--and more vinous--than the Clos des Chènes. Finishes seamless and very long, with noteworthy finesse of tannins. Showing beautifully today. Interestingly, this vineyard was the least affected by frost in 2016 but the first parcel Lafon harvested.