Even though two-thirds of the vines are over a century old, Dominique Lafon remarked that the half-hectare still produced eight barrels, around 40hl/ha. The 2019 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru is deeper in color than the Clos des Chênes, featuring dark cherries, raspberry and a light marine influence on the nose; good intensity here. The palate is certainly well structured, with more matière than the aforementioned Clos des Chênes, and grippy with a slightly grainy finish. Dense, yet so pure and elegant. This is a long-term prospect.  

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is also very elegant this year, but it's deeper-pitched than the more red-fruited Clos des Chênes, bursting with scents of dark berries, petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's supple and refined, with powdery tannins and a pretty core of fruit.

Eight barrels. Cask sample, will probably be bottled after all the other reds apart from Santenots. Savoury and detailed on the nose already. Dense and dancing. Lots going on here! Chewy and impressive. Long. (JR)