There are just three barrels of the Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu this year. It has a dense and concentrated raspberry and wild strawberry bouquet interlaced with minerals, backward and broody as usual. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin, a crisp level of acidity and a finish not unlike the Champans, although this is more opaque and standoffish. In my mind the Volnay Champans has a little more panache, but this has the substance to suggest long-term cellaring will be repaid.

Medium red. Wonderfully deep aromas of kirsch, blackberry, dark chocolate, licorice and minerals are lifted by a floral quality. Concentrated, saline and suave, delivering a terrific core of dark cherry, menthol and spices. A strong spine of refined tannins makes its presence felt late, allowing this lively wine to stretch out impressively on the spicy aftertaste. A classic vintage for this bottling.