An overtly floral nose combines notes of rose petal, violet and lavender with those of spiced plum, red currant and a whiff of earth. Lafon's Santenots is typically a fairly muscular wine but in 2016 it is more a wine of refinement and finesse though I stress that there is excellent concentration and punch on the impeccably well-balanced finish that flashes just a hint of austerity. Despite the refinement, make no mistake that this is a firmly structured wine that should be capable of aging effortlessly for years to come.

Aromas of dark cherries, incense, baking chocolate and rich soil tones introduce the 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu, a medium to full-bodied wine with superb depth and dimension, juicy balancing acids and powdery structuring tannins. The finish is long and sapid. It's an excellent Santenots that has really fleshed out since I tasted it from barrel.

Bright crimson. Slightly reticent nose – no bad thing in a young burgundy – but lots of density and potential with a fine balance between ripe fruit, acidity, and still quite a bit of fine tannin. Utterly Volnay. (JR)