The 2017 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru was opened by Dominique Lafon just because he wanted to compare with the ensuing two vintages. Who was I to stop him? It is very different in style from those vintages: redder fruit, more transparency, charming, and it wears its heart on its sleeve. The palate is full of slightly peppery red berry fruit, saline and spicy with good grip and a long raspberry and wild strawberry finish. So unbelievably drinkable, even at this early stage you’ll finish bottle.  

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu confirms its strong showing from barrel, soaring from the glass with scents of ripe cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange rind and a deft touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with melting tannins, succulent acids and a charming, supple profile that makes it hard to resist.

Lafon had 4 ha (10 acres) out of the 8 ha that constitute the appellation – this is their biggest cuvée (three big tanks). Not blended before barrelling. Barrels mostly 1–2 years old plus one-third new. He doesn’t include any stems in his Beaune reds. Deep and spicy red fruit and a bit more savoury than the Champans. A touch of smoky char. Magnificently fine silky tannins. So, so fine. Dominique Lafon says that this vintage fits well with the style he is aiming for. Succulent, fresh and not simple. Intense purity. (JH)