Lafon's finest red this year is, as usual, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu, a wine that combines the finesse of the Clos des Chênes with the power and depth of the Champans. Exhibiting a complex bouquet of cherries, smoky wild berries, rich soil tones, violets and dark chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated, with refined tannins and a sense of controlled power.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru has a generous bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberry and cranberry, quite pastille-like in style. The palate is well balanced with pliant tannins, fresh acidity, gentle grip with a vibrant and pure finish that exhibits judicious spiciness. Commendable length, this is a well-crafted Volnay that is a cut above the rest. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

In cask until April 2021. Quite an evolved, savoury nose. Deep and rich on the nose. But just a bit tart and lacking on the palate. Not a good moment to show this wine? Seems a bit hollow. And raw. (JR)