The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu is excellent, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, plums and cassis mingled with hints of spices, grilled meats and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and tightly wound, with powdery structuring tannins and lively acids. This is a serious Santenots that will require some bottle age, and it's among the best that I can remember tasting chez Lafon over the last decade.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2020 Volnay Santenots-les-Milieu 1er Cru's nose lacks clarity. It is a little dull and earthy, but some warmth is evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with bitter cherry and citrus peel. It feels a little pinched with a monotone finish, though it unwinds with aeration and develops more depth. This is a classy Volnay with more to give. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Deep ruby; blackcurrants, blackberry and black cherry. Sensuously ripe with vibrant structure, great intensity and length. (MH)