Good full, deep red. Musky, brooding aromas of black raspberry, plum, smoky oak and game; not especially extreme in the context of the vintage. Then thick, dense, chewy and sweet; as superripe, layered and generous as this is, it also retains very good verve and a bit of restraint. Finishes with huge tannins and a whiplash of mocha and roasted herb flavors. This very large-scaled wine really calls for a decade of bottle aging. These 2003s have turned out very well.

Aged in 75% new oak, the tobacco, blackberry, leather, and tar-scented 2003 Clos des Lambrays is medium to full-bodied, dense, and chewy. Hugely tannic yet concentrated and deep, this is a brooding chocolate, plum, blackberry, spice, smoky mineral, and black raspberry-flavored wine. Uncivilized and firm, it will benefit from cellaring. Projected maturity: 2009-2020. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Aged in 75% new oak, the tobacco, blackberry, leather, and tar-scented 2003 Clos des Lambrays is medium to full-bodied, dense, and chewy. Hugely tannic yet concentrated and deep, this is a brooding chocolate, plum, blackberry, spice, smoky mineral, and black raspberry-flavored wine. Uncivilized and firm, it will benefit from cellaring. Projected maturity: 2009-2020.

The nose is certainly quite ripe yet clearly pinot-based with a potent mix of red, black and violet aromas that introduce powerful and concentrated flavors that are supple, rich, densely but finely structured and immensely complex, possessing enormous depth and incredible length. The only nit is a touch of warmth but that often comes with the territory in this vintage. A 2003 to buy.