There is a combined hint of a floral and vegetal component, which is probably a residual effect of the significant percentage of whole cluster in the vinification. Otherwise the nose is composed of pure and elegant red berry fruit aromas liberally laced with stone and earth notes that can also be found on the richer and bigger flavors though it would be fair to say that the '07 Lambrays is a wine of finesse and delicacy rather than concentration and power. In sum, this is pretty rather than deep and while I doubt that it will ever be a charmer, it should offer very good to excellent quality in time.

The 2007 Clos des Lambrays smells of incense, ginger, blond tobacco, salted beef stock, and fresh red berries, all of which mingle on a finely-textured palate, leading to a long finish with hints of caramelized root vegetables and pan scrapings adding further savor to what is already an extremely mouth-watering performance, and one that should be worth attending over at least the next 6-8 years. This displays admirable clarity of flavors – not to mention their complexity – for its vintage. Thierry Brouin claims that “extreme selectivity and 4,700 bottles of Bourgogne rose” (of which, however, he didn’t open one for me) was his “formula” for 2008 excellence. I last tasted the wines – some lots of which didn’t finish malo until December – assembled from tank just prior to their March bottling. The 2007s were bottled in that month as well, “proper” wines – notes Brouin – “rendered from fruit that didn’t look very good.” Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Good full red. Reticent nose hints at plum, cherry, cinnamon and pepper. Tightly wound and imploded; much more backward than the premier cru. Not a particularly big or powerful version of Clos des Lambrays but shows the structured side of the vintage more than its sweetness of fruit. This seems to be closing down now. Finishes with big, dusty tannins and a lingering brown spice character.

Mid crimson. Rather muddy nose – not especially intense. Quite transparent but just a tad dull with distinctly dry tannins on the end. Reasonably solid but this has not aged particularly gracefully. Or perhaps it is just in a cussed phase? (JR)