Medium red. Almost a confectionery sweetness to the aromas of black cherry, cassis and dried flowers. Fat, sweet, lush and fine-grained; this really fills the mouth with perfume. The berry, pepper and mineral flavors are complicated by a saline, earthy nuance. Finishes with superb breadth of fine tannins and excellent persistence. When I asked Brouin what would happen to the peppery acidity of 2008 with aging, he opened a bottle of the 1998 Clos des Lambrays, which showed a tannic edge but maintained a silky texture with mellow spice, truffle and molasses notes and plenty of energy for further aging. I would not have described this wine as peppery, and Brouin added that the 2008 began life with more fruit than the earlier vintage.

The 2008 Clos des Lambrays smells of resin, incense, sassafras, and myriad fresh red berries; comes to the palate with terrific brightness, lift, pungency, and verve; and finishes with vibrant spiciness, exuberant sheer juiciness, and admirable clarity. With abundant but fine tannins, I suspect it will justify at least a decade’s attention, during which perhaps mineral and carnal complexities will emerge that are for now at most merely hinted-at. Thierry Brouin claims that “extreme selectivity and 4,700 bottles of Bourgogne rose” (of which, however, he didn’t open one for me) was his “formula” for 2008 excellence. I last tasted the wines – some lots of which didn’t finish malo until December – assembled from tank just prior to their March bottling. The 2007s were bottled in that month as well, “proper” wines – notes Brouin – “rendered from fruit that didn’t look very good.” Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800