An overtly floral suffused nose offers up ripe aromas of red currant, rose petal, plum and a hint of exotic spice. There is first-rate punch to the bigger and richer yet still well-defined medium weight plus flavors that possess impressive length on the nicely complex and dusty finish. Fine if not remarkable quality.

Still a little closed after its recent bottling, the 2016 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru exhibits aromas of cassis, raspberries, currant leaf and potpourri. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with fine-grained tannins, creditable concentration and juicy acids, concluding with a fragrant finish. This isn't as deep or multidimensional as the 2015 rendition, but it's an elegant middle-weight Clos des Lambrays that should drink well for 20 years or more. Morey-Saint-Denis was spared hail in this vintage, and 2016 thus delivered the largest yield recorded at the Clos since 1999. It was vinified with around 85% whole cluster, and the finished pH of 3.46 is only a touch lower than the 2015's pH of 3.48.

Since 2014 LVMH have owned this estate, whose main house is just across the road from Clos de Tart, where Jacques Devauges was once winemaker. He took over from Thierry Bruin in 2019. Bruin will have made this particularly successful wine in a vintage that was also especially successful for Devauges when he made the wine at Clos de Tart – despite hail, frost and mildew! Clos des Lambrays is not quite a monopole, thanks to the tiny holding there of Taupenot-Merme. Transparent garnet – one of the lightest wines so far. Very pretty and extremely fragrant and winning. Gentle with resolved tannins and perhaps a little more freshness than some but a real charmer. After some raspberry fruit there is an undertow of structure and perhaps a note of orange peel? Lots of juicy fruit but with real delicacy. Quite deceptive because you could drink this straight away but it clearly has the structure for a long life. (JR)