The 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru opens in the glass with expressive aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums and orange rind that mingle with nuances of forest floor, smoked meats, cedar and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and open-knit, with succulent acids and moderate concentration, concluding with a nicely defined finish. I expect this to flesh out a little as it bounces back from bottling.

The 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a very detailed bouquet of gorgeous red currant, cranberry and mineral aromas, plus a touch of tobacco in the background; quite leafy in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine backbone, quite firm and slightly powdery in texture. Focused with good grip on the sappy, overtly peppery finish. This is an excellent Grand Cru. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

Leafy, autumnal and complex, with soy and liquorice and a toasted, smoky finish. Fibrous tannin, pure fruit, excellent length. It's not floral, but there is an elegance here. Superbly persistent – just doesn't quit. Excellent expressiveness, this has the magic of burgundy. (RH)