The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has real intensity on the nose. It's very well-defined with layers of black cherry and blue fruit, mineral-driven with hints of violet emerging with aeration. But this is backward and holding itself back. The palate has exquisite balance. It's a little granular in texture, lightly spiced bordering on peppery, building beautifully in the mouth to exert an insistent grip on the finish. There is a grandeur about this Grand Cru that keeps you entranced, but it will demand time in bottle. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Revisited in bottle, the 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild berries, rose petals, sweet spices and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich and textural, with an ample core of fruit, beautifully powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. Youthfully reserved, like many 2020s, this nonetheless stands out as the finest Clos des Lambrays of the 21st century—for now!

Jacques Devauges was especially proud of the relatively low alcohol – and very low pH, apparently. Sweet start and slightly lacking juice at this early point in its life when it tastes just a bit too heavy and tannic – especially compared with the 2021 Clos des Lambrays served alongside. But it went pretty well with the Sladesdown duck served with green asparagus, olives and cedrat . (JR)