For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Eleven different cuvées combine to form the 2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, with every square meter contributing to the blend, to quote Jacques Devauges verbatim (as an aside, this is the same philosophy at Cheval Blanc, which is also on LVMH's mantelpiece). This vintage includes 80% whole bunch and was raised in 60% new oak. The bouquet is very expressive with ebullient red berry fruit, tobacco, forest floor and subtle aromas of ceps. The palate is medium-bodied with fine yet firm tannins that lend backbone and gentle grip. This fans out with style on the sapid finish with a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The 2023 ranks alongside the 2022 and may even surpass it. Prices have skyrocketed in recent years and priced out many Lambrays-lovers, but one cannot deny the quality.

An assemblage of 11 parcels, picked, pressed and vinified separately. 2023 saw a deliberately low yield of 41 hl/ha, despite the abundant fruit on the vine. Most producers asked to raise the legal yield, Lambrays resisted. Cask sample. Mid ruby. Intense, complex nose of red and black fruits with woodsmoke. Concentrated and intense fruit, with at present quite a pronounced structure of powerful tannins with good acidity. On the palate more flowers, herbs and spice. As deep as it is broad and, although imposing, neither hard nor overbearing. There’s great balance, real luxury and undoubted promise. It is, alas, not cheap. (MH)