4 STARS

All the cuvées are still separate but the sample has them all, and in their right proportions. Nothing selected out. 80% whole bunch vinification. A vigorous ruby red. Another exceptionally fine bouquet, a pure red fruit with some dancing points of spice. This is treading lightly but retaining its tensile strength, a wine of impressive elegance, properly ripe fruit, without the power of 2022 and 2023 of course, but if you want a beautifully refined expression of pure pinot, this will do a pretty good job. Very silky. But note not racked yet so may very well be lifted as the others have been. Drink from 2030-2040.

The 2024 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru includes 80% whole bunch this year and matured in 60% new oak. This has a very composed bouquet, the whole bunch nicely assimilated, mainly red fruit with bergamot tea and touches of undergrowth coming through with time. Beautiful definition. The palate is medium-bodied, classic Lambrays in style, modest weight with filigree tannins. Poised towards the finish with hints of bay and tea leaf, this is a lovely Clos des Lambrays that will be difficult to resist in its youth but I am sure will age. A "cool" Clos des Lambrays.2028-2048.

Devauges noted that this had not been racked and predictably at this stage of the élevage, the nose was firmly reduced. By contrast, there is excellent vibrancy and freshness to the succulent and caressing flavors that terminate in a dusty, youthfully austere, lightly stony and impeccably well-balanced finale. This refined effort should amply repay mid to even longer-term cellaring.