A subtle touch of wood serves as a suitably discreet backdrop for the exceptionally floral-infused and perfumed nose that offers up additional notes of spice, red currant and pekoe tea. The round, refined and lilting if impressively intense flavors are blessed with excellent punch and power while exhibiting a lovely salinity on the built-to-age finish. This refined effort is very classy, indeed the word Zen comes up mind.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2016 La Grande Rue Grand Cru was not affected by the frost, thankfully. This is (again) attested by the aromatics that convey a sense of joie de vivre and energy. Does that come from the relief of being spared? It offers wonderful red cherries, blood orange and yuzu scents combing with minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, impressive depth and grip in the mouth. Maybe this year it does not quite convey the same aristocratic personality as the Grands Echézeaux but there is real muscle and depth on the finish. Give this four or five years in barrel at least.

Cask sample. An unusal aroma that combines red fruit, vanilla spice and crushed herbs. Light, very fine tannins, a slim but not austere style which hides unexpected persistence. A clear family likeness with the Hautes-Côtes but with much more intensity at the core. Has an almost alpine character in its fresh minerality combined with the red fruits. Lots of refined pleasure but not a blockbuster. (JH)