Fresh cherry and resin on the nose of the Lambrays 2006 Morey-St.-Denis lead to a sappy, clinging palate impression, with invigorating plum and berry skin; hints of chili-like heat; and pungent herbs and resin incorporated into a long-lasting, exuberant, juicy finish. This should be relished over the next 4-6 years. As Brouin is quick to point out, the young vines, in the Clos are now 27 years old, and this cuvee is only 1,500 bottles. Thierry Brouin began harvesting ahead of the ban de vendange, yet felt that the stems were sufficiently ripe to retain, which – together with reliance on unbroken clusters – is his preferred means of controlling fermentative extraction. Brouin's haste, though, was also driven by a pressing concern. "We don't do any spraying against botrytis," he explains, "and in the beginning of September we had a lot of mild rain, and rot … whoosh! So we had to do a really strict selection and lost one-third of a normal yield." In light of Brouin's explanations, I was not expected what appeared in the glass: wines that easily more than stand qualitative comparison with his 2005s, and furthermore are a lot more fun to drink. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Medium red. High-pitched cassis and licorice on the nose, plus a whiff of high-toned oak. Then juicy, spicy and more serious than the young 2007, with brisk flavors of cassis and red licorice. Tightens up on the back, finishing with a slight dry edge. Brouin describes 2006 as "the classic pinot noir of Burgundy" but points out that the wines are higher than average in both tannins and acidity.