(aged in one-third new oak): Good medium red. Slightly sauvage aromas of red plum, currant, chocolate, mocha and leather. Offers modest depth and flesh but nice cut and peppery energy to its musky red fruit flavors. This distinctly low-fat wine has well-integrated acidity and finishes with good length.

The 2014 Morey St Denis Village, which sees one-third new oak and was completely destemmed, has a blackberry and cranberry-scented bouquet that is neatly entwined with the wood. There is a pastille-like purity at play here. The palate is taut and crisp, lively in the mouth with a citric thread interwoven through the blackcurrant fruit; it is quite sharp and just a little abrupt on the finish at the moment, but that will flesh out by the time of bottling.

Fragrant oak, pure fruit and lots of tannic grip. Seems lighter than in other vintages, which means it is no less satisfying to drink but probably has less potential longevity. (RH)