A superbly elegant and very pure nose of notably ripe yet fresh red small berry fruits, subtle earth, clove, anise and underbrush merges into intense, sweet and superbly precise flavors that are the epitome of a high class Volnay. In particular, the finishing minerality contributes to the overall impression of elegance and precision, two characteristics that are relatively rare in this hot and generous vintage. In short, this is a really beautiful effort that should cellar well for years. Note that I have upgraded my score slightly as well as extended the suggested initial drinking window by two years.

Good full red. Perfumed, floral aromas of dark fruits and licorice; shows the vineyard more than the vintage. Then fat, silky and seamless, with a compelling sweetness of red fruit flavor. Finishes with very well-buffered tannins and intense yet delicate fruit and floral flavors. A superb showing.

The medium to dark ruby-colored 2003 Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs (red) reveals a nose of candied red cherries, violets, and mint. Light to medium-bodied, it displays cassis, blackberry, black cherry, and brambleberry flavors that are ensconced in a firm (yet ripe) tannic shell. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808