The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs was destemmed by hand this year, with five people taking five hours to complete the entire vineyard. Apparently Frederic’s great-grandfather did the same in the late 1920s before there were destemming machines. It has an ethereal, brilliantly defined bouquet with disarming pure red berry fruit that, for want of a better expression, are just pure pinoté. The palate is defined by exceptionally fine tannins, real tension, slightly chalky toward the second half with laser-like precision. This will be one of the wines of the vintage—it is that good.

Deep gravel on top of calcaire. Protected from frost. Harvested with grandfather Michel and daughter Clothilde, to remind grandpa Michel of the old ways. They destemmed by hand on a round wicker grid (claie d’égrappage). Rich and heady. Beautiful. (JR)