The 2020 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru has been de-stemmed by hand since 2016. It has another very mineral-driven bouquet that unfolds marvellously, black cherry and bilberry, crushed rock and sea spray aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a lovely symmetry here, well judged acidity, poised and very persistent on the energetic finish. Sophisticated (as usual).

The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs is liable to overshadow even the emblematic Clos des Chênes this year. Offering up a profound bouquet of blackberries, sweet spices, rose petals, orange rind, summer truffles and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and immensely concentrated, with lively acids, abundant but almost imperceptible tannins and a long, saline finish.