For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs wafts from the glass with notes of orange oil, pear, clear honey and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with a bright spine cloaked in fragrant fruit, this is very promising. Lamy notes that some barrels composing this cuvée fermented rapidly whereas others took 12 months to finish their sugars.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet La Concis de Champs had wild variations in potential alcohol and acidity levels, caused by differing rootstocks, vine ages, pruning techniques, etc., that made it difficult for Olivier Lamy to pick. This has a bright red apple and lime bouquet that feels well defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and very pure. A lovely touch of bitter lemon enlivens and lends edge on the finish. Excellent.