One of the high points of this tasting, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is showing even better than it did when I tasted it a year ago, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, freshly baked bread, clear honey, stone fruit and a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's layered and concentrated, with incredible depth and intensity, exhibiting a tightly wound core that's built around racy acids and chalky structuring extract. Seamless and complete, this is a brilliant white Burgundy that fully realizes the potential of the site and the vintage.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard "Haut Densité" 1er Cru has a captivating nose with menthol, citrus peel, damp moss, heather and granite all joining the chorus line. The palate is stunning: blackcurrant, vanilla pod and subtle praline notes, all with wonderful length. Wow. Saint-Aubin doesn't get better than this.