Whether the 2017 or the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is the finer wine will be a fascinating question to debate over the decades to come, but the latter continues to perform brilliantly, mingling aromas of green pineapple, pear and citrus oil with notions of freshly baked bread, toasted nuts and youthful reduction in a compelling bouquet. Full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, it's rich and layered, with a racy spine of acidity, chalky structure and a long, intensely mineral finish. This is a stunning white Burgundy that takes Saint-Aubin to places that no one would have imagined possible a mere decade ago. It's a monumental achievement from Olivier Lamy, one of contemporary Burgundy's greatest vignerons.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard "Haut Densité" 1er Cru is not as expressive on the nose as the Puligny Tremblots, though that is just a phase it is going through. The palate is saline on the entry with sour lemon, peach skin and Conference pear, tapering towards the finish whereas the Tremblots appears to "stretch its arms". I will be prudent with my score for now.