The 2015 Santenary 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge), which comes from 0.28-hectare of vine planted in 1966, has a fragrant bouquet of maraschino cherries and crushed strawberry, perhaps the most generous of Olivier Lamy's red wines in 2015. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy in the mouth with red cherries, cranberry and strawberry notes, fanning gently out with a crisp, tensile finish. Top wine!

(these young vines on calcaire were picked early, at a moderate 12.5% potential alcohol): Pale, bright yellow. Menthol, white pepper and a touch of smoky, chalky reduction on the nose. Hints at ripe yellow fruits on the silky palate; with low acidity, this wine comes across as sweeter than it actually is. Should make satisfying early drinking.

Heady and yet precise. Lots of ripe fruit well trained. Tight and chewy on the end. (JR)