Aromas of crystallized peach and grilled nuts. Ripe and spicy in the mouth, with strong fruit salad (pineapple, peach, pear) flavors and noteworthy nervosite More powerfully structured and perhaps a bit more phenolic and spicy-even tough-on the aftertaste than the premier crus.

As I had experienced a great deal of difficulty tasting through Domaine Leflaive's 1998s a year ago due to their high levels of sulphur, Anne-Claude Leflaive was kind enough to allow me to retaste them. The wine was opened two hours prior to my tasting it. The 1998 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet exhibits toasted mineral aromas. It has an excellent attack and mid-palate, yet leads to a somewhat dry finish. Fat, medium-bodied, and complex, this wine tastes older than it is. Spices, dried honey-laced minerals, and touches of spice cake can be discerned in its flavor profile. It is delicious to drink today, as its personality would merit an outstanding score were it not for its finish, yet readers should note that it will require near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; (707) 963-9661.