This is aromatically quite similar to the Pucelles except that the fruit elements seem ever-so-slightly riper. There is stunningly good purity of expression to the cool, restrained and understated medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also serves to buffer the suave yet detailed finale that delivers seriously impressive persistence. The words 'pure class' aptly describe this beautifully balanced and age-worthy effort.

The 2013 Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean bouquet, touches of undergrowth here, perhaps not quite as comely as the 2014 may turn out. The palate is nicely balanced with hints of bitter lemon, striking acidity but showing composure and class on the finish that appears to have retained some of that nascent richness that it showed in barrel.

Light, bright yellow. Strong peach and ginger aromas are complicated by musky lees. Intensely flavored but lighter and tighter than the Pucelles, a bit youthfully sharp in a positive way. A flavor of lemon candy dominates. This classy wine will need several years in the bottle to gain weight and round out.